Creating a range of champagnes every year with a defined style from 45 crus (vintages) with distinct profiles is as much a challenge as it is a question of demonstrating viticultural and wine-producing expertise. Alexandre Ponnavoy, cellar master at Maison Taittinger, shares some secrets with us about the creation of cuvées.
Principle of a cuvée
The development of a Champagne cuvée is based on four principles according to Alexandre Ponnavoy, cellar master at Maison Taittinger. The first is “history and respect for the style,” he says. The second is “the terroir, which provides the most precise raw material possible.” Then comes “oenological practice to reveal and assist the terroir in enhancing the various factors and viticultural expertise.” Finally “time”, a genuine particularity of the Champagne region, during which the ingredients of the wine are harnessed and organised in a slow alchemy within the apparent tranquillity of the underground cellars.
Terroir and oenology together
Blending is considered to be a stage in the creation of a wine. The tastings carried out in teams allow “the viti to come to the vini and vice versa,” says Alexandre Ponnavoy, before adding that “the average volume in vinification is 200 hl, which represents between 1 and 2 ha.” This makes it possible to differentiate between the subtleties of the terroir within the 37 vintages specific to Maison Taittinger and to work with this diversity. “The more intense primary colours we have, the greater the richness of wine palettes and textures,” adds the cellar master. “Viticultural know-how, developed through experience and observation, enables us to better understand the natural factors of the terroir (soil, subsoil, altitude, slope, prevailing winds, plant material, vigour) and to increase the precision of wines. In return, the vinification of juices allows us to better understand the terroirs and to be even more precise in our viticultural practices. It’s a virtuous circle. The fluidity of the harvest process and the proximity of the vat room also increases the quality potential of the grapes,” says Alexandre Ponnavoy. “Knowing the vineyard inside out also makes it possible to consider pre-blending and blending in advance.”
Precision of vintages
“Respecting the identity of terroirs in the vinification process involves the maximum use of temperature-controlled stainless steel vats in order to avoid imposing an overbearing style, but also limited racking, no filtration and limited pumping,” says Alexandre Ponnavoy.
The selection of vintages in the blends constitutes the creation of the product. The classification of Champagne vintages has a long history that began in 1911 and was most recently defined in the Champagne AOC Specifications in 2010. It concerns 319 vintages divided into 17 grands crus, 44 premier crus and 258 ‘other’ crus. Alexandre Ponnavoy appreciates “the structure, depth, straightforwardness and austerity of young wines” in grand cru wines, while in premier cru wines he finds “an interesting aromatic diversity with a charming side, drinkability, dynamism, and a certain gourmandise.” The ‘other’ crus are not to be outdone and have their own character, albeit to a lesser extent. With the Côte des Bar, of which the estate has 80 ha, Alexandre Ponnavoy emphasises “a fresh and gourmet pinot noir, with a character from the village of Riceys which adds aromatic complexity to the Brut Réserve and the Brut Rosé.”
A succession of vintages
The Brut Réserve cuvée is made from 45 vintages, including ‘other’ crus, premier crus and a good amount of grands crus, in particular 30% made up of reserve chardonnay wines. The Prestige Rosé, Nocturne and Nocturne Rosé cuvées are made from 30 vintages. The Prélude Grand Cru includes 6 to 7 grands crus, and the vintage comprises 70% grands crus and 30% premiers crus.
The prestigious Comtes de Champagne cuvée includes five Côte des Blancs grands crus (excluding Oiry) and the Comtes de Champagne Rosé six grands crus (three chardonnay, three pinot noir, including Bouzy for the part vinified as red).
Finally, the Les Folies de la Marquetterie cuvée is made from around a dozen plots vinified separately, including 30% of the cuvée which is matured in a large wooden vat.
It is therefore skilfully-considered juggling that is required during blending; a complex and virtuoso art, orchestrated here by the cellar master Alexandre Ponnavoy, which makes it possible to give substance to this close and fundamental relationship between the vineyard and the vat room and to reveal the Taittinger style.
>> Discover our podcast “vins clairs tasting at the Taittinger winery”
>> The portrait of Alexandre Ponnavoy, cellar master
