A true open-air museum, Venice also stands out as one of Europe’s capitals of contemporary art. In addition to its notorious ‘Biennale’, which brings together the elite of international art every two years, the City of Doges puts on a show all year round, with two museums housing the Pinault Collection – the Palazzo Grassi, inaugurated in 2006, and the Punta della Dogana (‘Customs Point’), opened in 2009. Let’s take a look at these modern Venetian temples.
TWO MONUMENTS REVITALISED THROUGH CONTEMPORARY ART
In 2005, a dramatic change took place in the small world of contemporary art: François Pinault forwent setting up his foundation on Seguin Island, in Boulogne-Billancourt, and instead took his proposals to Venice. The businessman purchased the Palazzo Grassi from the Agnelli family (Fiat group), at a cost of 29 million euros. His aim was to breathe new life into this historic palace on the banks of the Grand Canal, which dates back to the middle of the 18th century. Renovated in record time by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, an expert in concrete work and lighting, the building was converted into a museum, complete with 40 exhibition rooms. The museum was opened in April 2006 with the launch of the exhibition entitled ‘Where Are We Going?’. For the first time, the richness of the Pinault Collection was uncovered, with works by Mark Rothko, Jeff Koons and Maurizio Cattelan, among others.
A year later, the city of Venice launched a competition for the establishment of a contemporary arts centre at the Punta della Dogana, not far from the Palazzo Grassi. François Pinault won on behalf of the Guggenheim Foundation and was granted the lease of the Punta della Dogana for an extendable period of thirty years.
With an area of over 5000m2, the building is one of the most incredible sites in Venice. Constructed in the 17th century, it is triangular in shape, surrounded by water and located just a stone’s throw away from St. Mark’s Square.
With renovation work set to take two years to complete, the job was once again entrusted to Tadao Ando. Having been abandoned for years, the building required not just renovation work, but a profound transformation which would allow it to be adapted to the needs of a contemporary museum. With the minimalist aesthetic awareness which epitomises his work, the Japanese architect rose to the challenge. Since its inauguration in 2009, this new space has allowed Venice to strengthen its place on the international art scene, adding to its famous Biennale, an event which attracts the most prolific players in the contemporary art world to the city every two years.
THE CHALLENGE OF THE ULTRA-CONTEMPORARY
Drawing upon the Pinault Collection, which is one of the largest collections in the world, with 10,000 works by nearly 400 artists, the Palazzo Grassi and the Punta della Dogana organise two exhibitions per year, each exceptional in both their duration and scope.
Both museums focus on the ultra-contemporary, alternating between group exhibitions and monographic projects devoted to veteran artists, such as Martial Raysse and Sigmar Polke, as well as rising stars like Urs Fischer and Rudolf Stingel.
Most of the exhibitions allow for the active involvement of artists, who are invited to create works in situ or carry out special commissions. There have, however, been some bold moves which have led to challenges, controversy, and even disorder. One such example is the ‘Boy with Frog’ sculpture by American artist Charles Ray, which was commissioned by François Pinault and placed at the bow of the Grand Canal in 2009. The sculpture was ultimately removed by the municipality of Venice in 2013, following calls from the public for its removal. This 2.4-metre-high statue had nevertheless become one of the major attractions of the city.
Furthermore, in 2017, Damien Hirst went viral after taking over the Punta della Dogana and the Palazzo Grassi with his huge fake ancient sculptures which were allegedly submerged following a shipwreck, representing a brilliant stunt in the form of a delirious mythological fable which ignited a flurry of conversation across the City of Canals.
Beyond the controversies, the two museums are now well anchored to the Venetian landscape, having since welcomed more than 3 million visitors. This year, the work of American artist Bruce Nauman will feature at the Punta della Dogana until 27 November. Meanwhile, the Palazzo Grassi will host a major exhibition devoted to the South African painter Marlene Dumas in early spring (27 March 2022 to 8 January 2023). The Venice Biennale of Contemporary Art will be held from 23 April to 27 November 2022, with its theme ‘The Milk of Dreams’. Quite a programme…More than ever, within the narrow streets of a city frozen in time, living art beats like a drum.
