To mark the release of Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2013, Dan Roznov shares a personal reflection on this champagne, which he sees as the ideal companion for long summer evenings.
Summer has finally arrived and I hereby declare BBQ season officially open.
It is time for stylish garden parties lasting beyond sunset, spiced with sparkling conversations, flirty banter and heartfelt laughter, paired with the smoky scent of grilled delicacies floating through the air. And epic juices in our glasses.
Now the obvious choice would be to serve light-hearted wines that go well with summer dishes, like Vins Rosés de Provence or Non-Vintage Rosé Champagne. Viable choices, but in my humble opinion not perfect, as both get flabby at high temperatures and lose grip with aeration. And you don’t want to carry an ice bucket around, greeting people with a wet hand, do you? Time to step it up.
I’d choose an elegantly zesty Prestige Rosé Champagne, slightly tense so it unfolds slowly. One that is fresh by house style and savoir-faire, not just by high acidity, with a chalky bitterness adding a noble freshness, so very champenois. One that feels like a light red Burgundy once it warms up, and sips nicely but not too easily, so you won’t get tipsy too fast in the heat. You guessed it, I am talking about my beloved Comtes de Champagne Rosé.
Often in the shadow of its uber-famous blonde sister (Comtes de Champagne Blanc de Blancs) but certainly not less prestigious, the rosé version is the epitome of quiet luxury. Produced only in top vintages and in small quantities, it is usually made from 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay, blended with 15% red wine from Bouzy (known for airy Pinots) and rounded off with 9g of dosage. And it ages spectacularly. Out now are the elegant 2013 and the rich 2012 – non-identical twins with a Burgundian spirit, and both blockbusters.
2013 has just been released and it might be their GOAT. Think spiced mandarin-wild strawberry-chalky blood orange-floral clafoutis on vinous frangipane in wine form, all sleek and delicate and crunchy and intriguing, and so fresh and energetic in the most elegant way. Now pair it with grilled fish, spare ribs, boudin blancor courgette flowers, and watch them dance together into the sunset.
While 2013 is all finesse, the 2012 is about bold, vibrant richness and powerful charm. Chalky raspberry-peppered strawberries ’n’cream-orange blossom on toasted almond brioche, with hints of dark chocolate. A mouth-melting smooth operator that is the soulmate of red meat. Pair it with your grilled steak or burger, and taste the Maillard reaction doing its magic when combined with that bubbly texture and juicy body. Or pair it with lobster, and your friends at the party will be salivating over your plate, wanting the same.
Now you think: surely such a fine champagne should be enjoyed in a restaurant?
I say no, because this
particular one needs longer time to unfold than average restaurant visits last,
and decanting won’t help, as it destroys its delicacy. I open it four to six
hours before and it makes all the difference. As with Vega Sicilia Unico, you
know. Hence great for long garden parties, as it will sing for hours.
My next party is tomorrow night, and it is time to marinate the ribs and skewer the prawns, as I cannot wait to toss them into the flames. Michael Jordan once said, ‘My game is built on fire, not flash,’ and that is literally my motto for any BBQ party I am hosting in our garden. And with Comtes de Champagne Rosé in our glasses, it feels like the summer has not just started, but will never end.
