To coincide with the release of the latest vintages from its Comtes de Champagne cuvee (Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2008 and Blanc de Blancs 2011), Maison Taittinger has invited chef Charles Coulombeau to design a monochromatic menu, all in white. Respect of the product, strokes of genius, skilful innovation…we are proud to present a five course tasting menu along with its creator.
Charles Coulombeau is head chef at restaurant La Maison dans le Parc in Nancy, where he serves a sunny cuisine inspired by nature. As a reflection of the poetry the young chef creates as well as the Comtes de Champagne cuvee, Maison Taittinger has entrusted him with designing an all-white menu, carefully put together by the teams at high-end caterers Potel & Chabot.
“Maison Taittinger tasked me with a unique challenge,” the chef explains. “Usually in cooking, colours occur organically depending on the season and are never the starting point for our thinking. Similarly, the wine is sooner there to support the dish, like seasoning.” The mandatory ingredients for this menu were the Comtes de Champagne Rosé 2008, Grands Crus Blanc de Blancs 2006, 2007, 2008 and 2011.
The exercise began with an exploration of the product. A representative from Maison Taittinger, chef Charles Coulombeau and his sommelier sat down together to taste the different cuvees that would be the guide for this menu. Armed with pen and paper, they jotted down every sensation that the elixirs triggered on their taste buds, their palate and in their sensory memory. These were the very first notes of the composition. “Next, we delved into our taste library and personal knowledge in search of complementary flavours that would enhance these champagnes. […] We needed a light but delicious cuisine, and one that was mindful of acidity so as not to clash with the champagne.”
The chef explains his thought process, starting with the Blanc de Blancs 2008. This vintage carries aromas of pear, lime, white pepper and orange blossom, cleverly combined with hints of liquorice and slightly toasted notes. It offers a fine balance between sophistication and concentration: aromas of white fruits, grapefruit and mint combine in a delicately honeyed finish. As such, for the aperitif the chef has chosen the smooth, sweet notes of foie gras and cauliflower.
The pairings between food and wine have proved no obstacle to the chef’s power of invention. For the starter he offers an innovative combination of milk-fed veal tartare, topped with a cardamom milk raviolo and Kristal caviar by Kaviari. A staunch believer that “we eat with our eyes before beginning the meal”, the chef has also made sure that the experience translates into the dining room. The main course is turbot cooked in beeswax — an imaginative and delicious feast for the eyes. This way the fish is cooked in front of the client; the aromas of honey and beeswax stir the senses as the golden net delicately grasps the flesh.
“It was a fascinating exercise because it is something you would only ever usually do as part of an artistic challenge.” And yet the process was one that matched perfectly with the chef’s own approach: simple cuisine but using exceptional products that are elevated to the very best of their potential for the delight of those who taste them.
