By selecting the “Instant Gourmet” tour from the new menu of visitor options at the Champagne Taittinger site in Saint-Nicaise, visitors can explore Champagne’s historic chalk cellars and journey through the history of the Maison, while also enjoying a spectacular tasting experience masterminded by a Reims native, chef Philippe Mille
Champagne is known the world over as a wine for toasting, for special occasions, for celebrations and parties. This association is so strong that it was even a factor in Champagne being added to the UNESCO World Heritage list. However, Champagne is also an excellent wine for the dining table; a co-author of culinary sensations, one might say. To showcase these qualities, Taittinger asked chef Philippe Mille, a fervent champion of the Champagne region’s unique terroir, to put together a series of food & wine pairings for two of the Maison’s flagship vintages: Prestige Rosé and Brut Millésimé.
Chef Mille is no stranger to creating successful pairings: along with his teams, he has already devised combinations of flavours and aromas to bridge the gap between plate and glass at his restaurant, Arbane, in Reims. This time, the connection is being inverted: he begins with the wine itself, setting out to find canapés that will showcase each Champagne’s unique flavour profile. In either direction, the approach is the same: “They each need to be consistent, in agreement all the time. Whether the Champagne is complimenting the food or vice versa, the end result should be pleasure.”
A product of the produce
To guide visitors as they sample these two Taittinger vintages, Philippe Mille sought “meaningful notes that would be enjoyed by as many people as possible; largely plant-based, gluten-free and drawing inspiration from the seasons. As such, the canapés evolve over the course of the year, changing with the seasons.” For example, celeriac is one of the vegetables chosen for the late winter period. “We made a celeriac extract to capture its highly aromatic juices, then we immersed a few strands of the vegetable in its liquid to intensify the flavour, seasoning with a dab of camelina oil. It’s a product of the produce itself; the vegetable, the plant, the water. We really want to tackle the tasting process with a sense of freshness.” The canapés are prepared locally by M Réception, the high-end catering service founded by chef Mille.
Interplay of flavours
Served on a wooden board with explanatory comments, the result is two plant-based items, two items featuring animal products sourced locally in Champagne, and one sweet item for the finishing touch. Currently, the menu features: celeriac suspended in its own liquid, a hazelnut-squash contrast, Schubert’s trout, chicken with wild carrot, and candy caviar. In all, it resembles a miniature meal with a starter, main and dessert. “The whole idea,” the chef continues, “is to give visitors a different experience, and to show them that Champagne can be paired with any stage of a meal.” Seated comfortably in the tasting room following their visit of the Maison, food and wine lovers can appreciate Champagne in ideal surroundings, exploring the interplay of colours, flavours and textures on offer, while noting their impressions and preferred pairings in the little notebooks provided. This new offering is a further expression of the art of the blend, which the Maison Taittinger has made the central theme of its renewal of the Saint-Nicaise site.
