She has a whole universe named after her. Having revolutionised the world of toys, Barbie is now a firm pop culture favourite. She has gone from plastic to iconic. Dressed from head to toe in the style of her time, she holds up a mirror where our reflection is the one staring back at us – and it’s not as distorted as you might think.
“A doll can help change the world.” This sounds like quite a tall order for a doll. Not just a slogan, this is a bold commitment made by the toy company Mattel on its website – more specifically, in one of its dedicated sections that extols the benefits of playing with dolls, backed up by experts and neuroscientists alike.
When we think of her, we forget that she’s a doll. She has gone beyond this notion, becoming both public property and a household name. She is no other than Barbie, who else? Underneath her ‘butter wouldn’t melt’ look, this eternally young woman with a perfect figure (give or take three ribs) is now celebrating her 64th birthday. She has witnessed many societal changes over the years. Somewhere between utopia and marketing, what does this mini version of us reveal about our own lives? Come on Barbie, let’s go party.
Two toy Barbie
With her golden blonde locks blowing in the wind and her ocean blue eyes, Barbie is unapologetically Californian. She first arrived on the scene in 1954, a new toy from Los Angeles-based brand Mattel, co-founded by Harold Matson and Elliot Handler. It was Handler’s wife Ruth who dreamt up Barbie, after discovering Bild Lilli on a trip to Europe. This doll boasted an hourglass figure and sported fashionable clothes, aimed more at adults than children at the time and often purchased as an erotic gift.
Before morphing into a doll, Bild Lilli was originally a cartoon character, created in 1952 by Reinhard Beuthien for German newspaper Bild-Zeitung to promote sketches and dirty jokes. But Ruth Handler saw much more than just a call girl in this plastic muse and set her sights on a new career for her over in the States. She would be christened Barbie, a shortened form of her daughter’s name, Barbara.
Married at first sight
In contrast to traditional baby dolls that little girls would care for to embrace their future role as mothers, Ruth Handler’s offering was an adult doll who children could recognise and idealise.
It let their imaginations run wild and opened a future of possibilities, supported by a collection of accessories and clothing including one highly symbolic item: the wedding dress. To remain in keeping with the conservative stance of the time, this marital dream was at the centre of the brand’s marketing message. The goalposts had shifted from the perfect mother-to-be with baby dolls to the perfect bride-to-be with Barbie. Indeed, it wasn’t long before said groom joined the adventure and Ken –short for Kenneth, Ruth Handler’s son – made his début in 1961 before the subsequent arrival of the Dreamhouse in 1962 to complete the perfect family.
Contemporary doll
Over the years, Barbie broke free from the shackles of marriage to become a nurse, then a doctor and even an astronaut in 1965. However, her measurements remained standardised to conform to a completely unrealistic beauty ideal. If she was life-sized, Barbie would have a 36-inch chest, an 18-inch waist and 33-inch hips.
It was only in 2016 that she was given a fuller figure, made available in four different silhouettes. For more diversity in its range, the brand also introduced seven different skin tones and 30 hair colours.
2019 marked a new turning point with the Barbie Fashionistas collection, which is “more reflective of the world girls see around them today” according to Mattel’s website. This line features dolls with physical disabilities (including one with a prosthetic leg and one who uses a wheelchair) as well as genetic disabilities thanks to the recent addition of a Barbie with Down’s Syndrome, although this is only a limited edition.
Mattel is clearly committed to a more inclusive approach, turning their timeless icon into a contemporary one. It’s only a small step to making a genuine ethical commitment – the brand just needs to walk the walk (in heels). But could it be argued that Barbie is in the process of emancipating herself from Mattel, too? At a time when girl power is gaining momentum, you can be both a feminist and like bright pink. It’s about overcoming the stigma and appropriating feminine codes from traditional masculine ones.
What’s more is that Barbie can now define her own gender, without hiding behind Ken’s biceps. She’s spreading her wings, and in the hands of director Greta Gerwig, you could even say she’s taken flight. We’re at a point where this doll can call her own behaviour into question.
